Between the depressions of Chirivel and Huéscar rises a series of rugged mountain ranges that form a landscape where beautiful valleys alternate with steep mountains, whose peaks are covered in white in winter, enhancing the contrast with the arid landscape that surrounds them. This is the Sierra María-Los Vélez Natural Park.

If you walk along the Pinar de la Alfahuara trail, you will discover one of the best-preserved forests in the province and a hunting reserve from the time of Philip II. Among its dense vegetation, consisting of Aleppo pines, holm oaks, black pines and deciduous trees in the higher areas, live mammals such as squirrels and badgers, as well as birds of prey such as booted eagles and sparrowhawks. Those interested in learning about the vegetation of the area can take an easy trail at the foot of the Sierra de María that runs through the Umbría de la Virgen botanical garden.

The large temperature fluctuations, together with the low annual rainfall, often in the form of torrential downpours, cause drastic changes in the landscape. In areas where vegetation is sparse, such as steep slopes on sunny sides, erosion is extreme, leading to the formation of large gullies and deep ravines in the Sierra de la Muela. In addition, these high rocky peaks provide safe nesting places for golden eagles, eagle owls and peregrine falcons.

Another noteworthy aspect of Sierra de María-Los Vélez is that it is home to exclusive species, such as the Sierra María centaurea, or an impressive specimen of Spanish juniper found in the municipality of Chirivel at an altitude of around 1,600 metres, which has been declared a Natural Monument. It belongs to a species that is rare in the Andalusian region and is estimated to be a thousand years old. The community of invertebrates includes unique species, among which the butterfly known as the Apollo or peacock butterfly stands out.

Visiting La Hoya de Taibena, you can see how, in the lower areas, human activity has changed the appearance of the landscape and the forests (holm oak and pine) and Mediterranean scrub have been replaced by crop areas, notably cereals and almond trees.

Since ancient times, man has sought shelter in the foothills of this mountain range, as evidenced by important archaeological sites. The Ambrosio Cave dates back to the Palaeolithic period, and the Cueva de los Letreros, which contains a collection of well-preserved cave paintings, dates back to the Neolithic period. More than 7,500 years old and considered one of the most important on the Iberian Peninsula, it features the figure of the Indalo, the symbol of Almería. Another essential visit within the natural park is the Castillo de los Vélez, a Renaissance-style gem that has been declared a National Historic Monument.

Since 1990, there has been a twinning arrangement between the Sierra María-Los Vélez Natural Park and the Altmühltal Natural Park, located in southern Germany, in the centre of Bavaria, approximately one hundred kilometres north of Munich. This twinning between natural parks, a world first, has since its inception promoted the exchange of knowledge and management experiences, as well as numerous activities involving different groups (universities, secondary schools, artists, entrepreneurs, women's associations, etc.).